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Arnsberg: Forest Treasure and Small Berlin

Lying in the valley of the Ruhr River, Arnsberg is known as Pearl of the Sauerland - the region that is part of the North Rhine-Westphalia. It is almost completely surrounded by a forest, one of the biggest in Germany. The peculiarity of Arnsberg is that, while remaining within the city, here you can move from one reality to another -from the cozy old quarter to an idyllic rural landscape with monasteries and castles or to the modern shopping street with boutiques and famous brands shopping outlets. 

Arnsberg was first mentioned in chronicles of 789 as part of Werden monastery. Starting from the XI century it already appears in documents as the Castle of the Counts of Werl. In the following century a same-name city emerged around the castle, which in turn became the capital of the same-name county. Historians write that Arnsberg had an important place in medieval justice system. In the case of unresolved disputes the conflicting parties often sought the truth in this city. Starting from the XII century, the so-called Vehmic court - a secret tribunal having tremendous power-also functioned in addition to traditional judicial authorities in Arnsberg. Having no direct heirs, in 1368 Arnsberg’s last count, sold his title and properties worth 130 thousand florins to the Archbishop of Cologne. In addition to the money he also got the right to be buried in the Cologne Cathedral, which was a great honor for a secular ruler. Modern Arnsberg appeared in 1975 as a result of administrative reform, bringing together 14 adjacent municipalities. Of these, only two - Arnsberg and Neheim-Husten – are built in an urban style. The rest are located in rural areas. Neheim is famous for its excellent shopping, which is not inferior to the shopping in larger cities. 

In Arnsberg one should familiarize with regional Sauerland kitchen. Basically, it offers reach dishes not requiring large amounts of food ingredients. Apples, potatoes and onions take the first place in them. Some traditional dishes from the arsenal of the poor, which every family used to prepare here, are no longer so popular today. This is, in particular, true for the sweet soup with Krümelgrete bread crumbs. But Reibeplätzchen - potato pancakes, served with apple sauce or sugar syrup, is still enjoying success. Another local dish - Pott Hucke – is also made from potato dough and baked in the oven. When the cake rises, it is cooled, cut into pieces and lightly fried. From vegetables cabbage is popular- both cooked (Sauerkraut), and fresh. Many of the dishes include wild grasses - nettles, sorrel, wild garlic, dandelions. They are not only useful, but can also be very tasty, depending on the skill of the cook.

The mountain with the ruins of the old Castle of the Counts is over Ansberg. This is a great place for a stroll, as the hill with the castle offers an exceptional view of the city center. Two picturesque towers of the XIII century from the surviving buildings - the Grüne Turm and the Limpsturm, which were once part of the former city wall, arrest the sight.  Another unique monument of the Middle Ages - a stone table with seats, where the secret tribunal held meetings – is still at the foot of the mountain. A sword lies on the table: its position symbolized the verdict. If, after deliberations the sword pointed at the defendant, it meant he was found guilty, which often led to immediate execution.

A stylish white bell tower, topped by a black dome of an unusual shape is the architectural landmark of the Old Market Square (Alter Markt). In ancient times, the tower was part of the city walls, but after the expansion of the city, it lost its defensive function. This is one of the oldest buildings in Arnsberg. It was first mentioned in documents dating to 1236. Initially, the bell tower had another roof – resembling rather a tent with four towers at the corners. But after a fire in 1723, it was replaced by the present "bulbs" in the Baroque style. The bell tower is complemented by other tourist Alter Markt “lighthouses”: St George's Chapel, the Maximilian's Fountain (Maximilianbrunne) in the form of a column, black-and-white half-timbered houses, the Landsberger Hof building dating to 1605, where the Sauerland Museum is located. One should more closely examine the old town hall, the wall of which has a built-in niche with an about 1,500-years-old statue of Madonna by an unknown Swabian master. The elegant white house with brightly painted shutters deserves a special mention. A judge of the Witch, Heinrich von Schultheiss, was its most famous inhabitant in the XVII century. In the 20s of the XIX century the house began to be used as a hotel, and in 1833 a tavern was opened in it. It received the name written on the fronton- Zur Krim, which is literally translated as "for the Crimea" -just in that role. It is said that during the Crimean War, the inn visitors gathered here to debate on the fate of Crimea.

Just a short walk from the Old Market Square is a very different Arnsberg. After the Congress of Vienna in 1815, Arnsberg became part of Prussia. Prussian King Friedrich Wilhelm III made it the seat of their provincial government. Therefore, they built a "little Berlin"- a quarter of buildings in the style of classicism -in the heart of the city. A new market area (Neumarkt), a casino, a hotel and the Church of the Ascension of Christ also appeared here. The clear and strict silhouettes of the buildings of the "Little Berlin" create an interesting contrast to the more elegant entourage of the Old Market Square.

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